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Overwhelmed by cruise ships and their hordes’ effect on the islands, I found myself sharing the midnight watch with Andreas when we were quite literally forced to change course, pronto, or be plowed under by one of the behemoths as we sailed to St. Martin! There we found three more docked and one more waiting and the beaches bursting with more American accents than Caribbean patois. We hastily bought our duty free liquid gold and departed ASAP in search of the island that Kenny Chesney sang to me about all winter — “kickin’ back with Ivan.” We drop the hook about 50m offshore from my one can’t miss stop for this voyage: Ivan’s Local Flavor Stress Free Bar on Jost Van Dyke, BVI.
What’s not to love about an island named after a pirate with place names like Pull and Be Damn Point? This is my kind of heaven acknowledged by my daughter Jenna when I called home from a hammock under a coconut lined beach they call main street, “You’re never coming home, are you?” (This more a statement than a question.) Then, “Do they need a great bartender?” To the overworked, stressed-out folks, this magical place is all that’s needed — “no shoes, no shirt, no problem.” Yup, Kenny comes here to hang out, write songs about it and has shot videos from the bar which is what had me dreaming of this island all this time…and here I was.
Ivan Chinnery, 70-something, has been described as “The Nicest Man In The World” by locals, authors and celebrities alike. He counts as fans and friends Mick Jagger, Keith Richards and, of course, Kenny Chesney, with whom he performs in the USA in concerts which Kenny bills this way: “Kenny Chesney opening for Ivan.” Meeting Ivan was one of those life moments. He said it best, “I look in your eyes and I see into your heart, your beautiful soul. We were meant to meet. We are one.” He embodies the kindness, truth and genuine trusting spirit of the BVI. He is the heart of these islands. His contagious good humor and his wisdom filled my heart and when his eyes twinkled he grinned and said, “We should get married, or maybe go into business together.” I laughed till I cried. I promised to come back to discuss the business part of the proposition so all of us could continue to live stress free “on the coast of somewhere beautiful.”
Sharon Heggie, a Canadian, has been everything from a successful innkeeper to a chiropractic assistant to a TV producer/host and the list now includes sailor! When not traveling, she cheerfully bakes cookies for her family in Midlothian, VA where she can also be found at frequent food and wine events.
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